I don’t need a new backpack. I didn’t think I particularly even wanted one, until I walked into Hsu and Daughters, a handmade leather shop and school in Taipei’s Da’an district.
Here’s their deal. Each piece they make has two prices on them: one is to buy-it-now, and the other, usually around 20% less, is the price you pay if you make it yourself. That’s right; if you have the time and inclination, you can schedule a time to come in and take one of their leather goods-making classes where you build an accessory of their design, and take it home with you. What’s more, if you make it yourself, you can customize it, choosing the color of the leather and adding gold or silver embossing.
The styles of the bags in the shop were a unique range of designs, from backpacks that seemed inspired by Scandinavian minimalism and then camera bags that would fit perfectly in a Victorian-era doctor’s office. Uniformly however, the leather was thick and sturdy with minimal hardware, little contrast stitching, and no unnecessary adornments. The brand name rarely shows up on goods, and when it does, it takes up little visual space. They make goods for people who don’t like to lead with brands, and Hsu and Daughter seems to be the type of store that isn’t clamoring for more advertising space, with limited brand recognition outside Taiwan (though given their quality and rare store/workshop concept, this should change).
I’m a particular sucker for no-pressure salespeople, as well, and Mick could not have been more of a delight to work with. When I ventured a long shot question to see if they had a specific bag in a different color (they keep a small stock of already made goods, preferring the emphasis of teaching people how to work with leather themselves), he went out of his way to find a retired model from the back, bringing out several different other options as well. Mick was incredibly patient as I hemmed and hawed over the different options, going so far as to call the manager to see if if he could offer a discount on an apricot colored, trapezoidal backpack that had a few small scrapes on it. This is how customer service should be: warm and unpretentious.
Unfortunately, we didn’t have the time to make our own stuff — take note reader, to do some of the bigger pieces, you need to reserve a time a week in advance for the staff to collect your desired leather/hardware — but did leave with two pieces. I picked up this backpack for around $250 USD, not cheap, but about a quarter what this quality would cost in New York. Hsu & Daughter only has three stores: two in Taipei and one in Beijing, and as far as I can tell, doesn’t ship finished products. Their raison d’etre is to emphasize the art of leather working, so to that end, they don’t have an online store. This is a sadness, but on the bright side, gives you an excuse to visit Taipei, and provides an actual unique experience you can’t get anywhere else (except Beijing).